Ok, while trying to figure out crazy and mostly unworkable ways to make this work for both developers and distros I came up with this idea:
Build the lpcnetfreedv library multiple times with and without optimizations. Because of its size, it would be good to separate the nndata into a separate library unless you think that will hurt performance. Otherwise that's tens of MB added to each library.
Then FreeDV could check for multiple libraries and load the "best" candidate.
I'm also experimenting with a different method of downloading the nnet data by creating a custom target so you can "make download" or it will download on the fly during make instead of during configuring.